June 18. Teacher of the Year

Friday marked Genee’s return from her first week at her school. Fortunately it went very well and she really enjoys most of the children at her school. Her teaching skills are being put to the test, as her class has children that range in age from two to seven. Added to this is the fact that none of the kids under five really has a sufficient command of English to fully understand what it is she’s saying.

Despite these obstacles, however, she enjoys them and they seem to enjoy her – perhaps partly because the regular full-time teacher is of the ‘spare the (hourly) rod, spoil the child’ school of thought. They also enjoy experimentally touching her hair and fingertips, poking her skin, and even – inexplicably – licking their fingers and then touching the skin on her forearms. One girl was fairly mesmerized by the ability to see the blood in Genee’s veins right through her skin (she seemed less than convinced when Genee explained that unoxygenated blood is blue) and suggested that if Genee wanted to turn her skin the colour of the girls' she simply needed to get more sun.

June 15. Da Fuzz

Today I went with a group of WiLDAF staff to Police Headquarters in Accra. We were there to give a seminar on protection orders under Ghana’s recent Domestic Violence Act, with special focus on the responsibilities of the police in the process of issuing and enforcing these orders. As it turns out, the report I recently finished on the experience with protection orders in other countries around the world served as the backbone of the seminar. Our presentation was fairly well received, and obviously quite necessary, as virtually none of the officers in attendance had any idea of the extent of the responsibilities the Act places on police officers when it comes to assisting victims in seeking protection orders and arresting those who violate such orders.

Unfortunately, however, it appears it will be some time before this new knowledge is put to use, as protection orders are simply not being issued – and are very seldom sought – in Ghana today. Further, it seems the police are very reluctant to bring charges under the relatively new DVA, preferring instead to use the criminal law, with which they are much more familiar. The problem with that, of course, is that the Domestic Violence Act was passed specifically to provide new and more effective avenues for combating domestic violence and protecting victims – protection orders being chief among them.

Today also marked Genee’s first day at the Lotus Children’s Centre in the Lartebiokorshie neighbourhood. We’ve both got our fingers crossed that it goes well.

June 13. Go Blackstars

Today was Ghana’s first game of the World Cup, against Serbia. Genee, Duncan and I watched it on a giant screen erected right in the middle of the main drag in Osu, the most commercial/touristy district in Accra. Ghana won 1-0 on a late penalty and the crowd went nuts. It was a great atmosphere.

Afterwards, Genee and I moved from Kathy and Keith to Duncan’s, where, a suitable homestay not having been found for me by WiLDAF, I’ll remain until October.

June 12. Put to Work

Today Genee and I helped Kathy and Keith set up for their going-away yard sale, and I managed to catch some World Cup action while the yard sale was actually going on. In the evening it was time for a full-on send-off party at their house, as Keith and the girls leave for Maryland on the 21st and Kathy leaves a few days after that. It was a fun bash with a big turnout and it gave Kathy and Keith a chance to say goodbye to a lot of friends they’ve made here over the past three years.

Genee and I arrived fashionably late – despite the fact that the party was held on the front lawn – as we were holed up upstairs watching the end of the U.S. v. England match. As an England supporter I was horrified by the virtual own goal from the English keeper, but am still confident England will advance without much problem.

June 11. The Wait is Over

It’s finally here. The World Cup begins and I’m looking forward to a month straight of all football all the time. Ghanaians are without exception hugely excited for the Black Stars, who play their first match on Sunday. They’re also cheering for all the African teams, so they were somewhat happy to see South Africa draw Mexico.

In the evening Genee and I watched the France match with a bunch of French people at Champs bar. Les bleus drew 0-0 against Uruguay in a very boring match. France just isn’t the same without Zidane.

Early prediction: Brazil over Spain in the final.

June 6 - 10. Work and Play

This week at WiLDAF I worked on a report on civil protection orders, which are a large part of Ghana’s recent legislative changes surrounding domestic violence. My research looked at challenges other countries have faced when it comes to issuing and enforcing protection orders.

On Thursday Genee, Duncan, a Ghanaian friend named Michael and I went to Champ’s Sports bar for their Quiz Night. We finished fourth out of twelve teams, only a point and a half out of second, and managed to win the tequila round. It was a lot of fun and we were looking forward to making it onto the podium next week, but unfortunately Quiz Night will be on hiatus for the duration of the World Cup.

June 4. A Special Delivery

After work today it was off to the Kotoka International Airport to meet the lovely and charming Mlle. Genevieve Murray, currently my favourite girlfriend, who was arriving for a nearly two month stay in Ghana. Genee will be starting a month-long volunteer position of her own at the Lotus Children’s Centre in Accra in about a week’s time.

It was wonderful to see her after so long apart, although I had a hard time convincing her that while it was about 30* and humid it was actually a very cool day for Accra.

Photos for the sake of photos (Part I)

Photos for the sake of photos (Part II)

June 2 - 3. A Conference on Ghana's Domestic Violence Act

On Tuesday and Wednesday I attended a two day conference on the status of Ghana’s implementation of it’s 2007 Domestic Violence Act, which was put on by Action Aid Ghana and the Ark Foundation. Both myself and another CCI intern, Joanne Pontbriand attended as WiLDAF representatives.

It was quite encouraging to see the number of participants at the conference, and to realize that there is a very healthy network of groups committed to fighting against domestic violence in Ghana, including NGOs, the Police Service, governmental agencies, social workers, medical professionals, and lawyers and members of the judiciary. (As a matter of fact, I actually spoke with the judge that had asked the day before whether I was up on charges.)

Ultimately, however, the conference concluded that Ghana is a long way from fully implementing the Act. The most glaring problem, it was agreed, is that no Regulations have been passed under the Act prescribing such things as protection order forms, training sessions for police and court officials, or the provision of financial assistance to victims. In addition, a fund that the Act calls for to support victims of domestic violence has yet to be set up, with the result that many women can’t afford to bring domestic violence cases to court and the police can’t afford to effectively investigate complaints.

I was quite unpleasantly surprised to speak with a couple of police officers working in the Domestic Violence Victims’ Support Unit who seemed to believe that in the absence of such Regulations they were unable to charge individuals under the Act, which of course is not the case. Clearly, there is a lack of understanding of the Act and its implications not just among ordinary women, but also among members of the special police unit designed to keep them safe from abuse.

June 1. My Day in Court

Today I accompanied a WiLDAF volunteer to circuit court, where we sat in on a number of cases in a dedicated family law court. The courtroom was absolutely packed with witnesses and observers. As usual, the Ghanaians seemed generally unperturbed by the cramped quarters, heat and humidity, while I perspired as though I were in the defendant’s dock.

A common and disturbing theme was the lack of legal representation for the accused, as well as some serious linguistic barriers (although a translator was present).
We watched a number of cases, most of which were adjourned after a ‘not guilty’ plea. The cases involved charges of rape, defilement, and sexual abuse. In one case a headmistress at an elementary school pled not guilty to four counts of sexually abusing girls under her care.

In another case a 19 year old man was charged with, and pled guilty to, raping his 16 year old girlfriend. As it turned out, there was no allegation of forced sex. Instead, the girlfriend, who was 15 at the time, became pregnant by the accused and, when he denied paternity, pressed charges on the grounds of what amounts to statutory rape (the age of consent being 16 in Ghana). At the trial, the girl was represented by her mother, who seemed to be unable to speak much English or Twi. In addition, she expressed some interest in having the charges dropped since the accused had admitted paternity and committed to providing for the girl and her child. However, the judge ruled that as the case had been brought before her as a criminal matter she had no choice but to sentence the man to the minimum sentence, namely seven years in prison.

I could not help thinking that with just a bit more access to legal advice the whole matter could have been resolved in a much more satisfactory manner – that is, with the girl and her child provided for and the accused not rotting in a Ghanaian prison.
On a lighter note, it turned out that in our quest to find seats in the crowded courtroom we ended up on a bench generally reserved for accused persons. Thus, before adjourning for the morning, the judge actually asked the prosecutor if my companion and I were up next on the docket. Fortunately he replied in the negative, and we were free to go.

May 29 - 30. More football

Saturday found me accompanying Kathy and Keith and the girls to the ultra-modern Accra Mall, where we had lunch at Rhapsody’s restaurant.

On Sunday morning I got up bright an early to head over to the Ghana International School, where, I had it on good authority, there was a weekly soccer game at 8am. It was fun getting to play again on a real grass field (or at least two-thirds grass), but it was exhausting after a while. Even overcast at 10am, the heat and humidity here makes a couple of hours of soccer a real test of stamina.

May 28. Quiz Night

After work today (mainly research on how to improve the WiLDAF website) it was off to Quiz Night at the British High Commission Club with Duncan. I really enjoyed frequenting Quiz Night in New Plymouth, New Zealand while I was travelling there, despite the fact that there were always an inordinate number of questions about cricket, rugby, and sheep. Tonight was déjà vu all over again as the entire first round – misleadingly labelled simply ‘Music’ – turned out to consist of questions about the Eurovision Song Contest, something I don’t think I’d ever heard of until tonight. Despite missing out on my services for the first round I was able to lead our team to a triumphant third place finish (out of four).

May 26 -27. Work Continues

Wednesday was spent working from home. I finished my speech for Ghana’s Speaker of Parliament. On Thursday I went back in to the office to make sure my colleagues hadn’t forgotten about me. For lunch I went for fried chicken and fried rice at a local chop bar that’s become a favourite.

May 25. Happy African Union Day

Today was a holiday in lieu of African Union Day. Ghanaians evidently utilize the day off mainly to rest and watch tv. So I did likewise.

May 24. Playing soccer in a sauna

After work today I played soccer at the British High Commission’s “Grasscutters Club.” We played 5-on-5 with no goalies on their tennis court, which is made of artificial turf. There were some good players out there and it was a lot fun. It was also very tiring, especially so because of the high humidity. I was drenched in sweat within the first few minutes.

Afterwards, Duncan and I headed over to a free concert at Independence Square in honour of the birth of Kwame Nkrumah, the first President of the independent state of Ghana. There Duncan and I met up with fellow couchsurfer Nicholas and a few of his friends. It was a great atmosphere and good music, although the five minute fashion shows interspersed between musical acts were a bit odd. We ended up staying until the concert ended at 3am.